You can change the name of the MIDI device by changing the name of Arduino Micro in the boards.txt file and reuploading the code. Resolution can vary between sensors and magnets.
Raw value resolution on my setup is around 300, far better than MIDI's 128. The default curves take care of that and you can even adjust them to your liking.Ĭurves although in the 0.127 range work on input domain hence there is no loss of resolution. Input can be approximated with a quadratic. The unipolar setup of Hall Effect sensors does not yield linear results.
For each change you need to reupload the code (step 16). You can control what messages are output, their channels and also adjust curves manually. They are self descriptive and there are comments explaining their function. The first part of the code contains user setup values. For that reason the value will go directly to 127 the first time you press it. Important note: The first time you depress each pedal after connection/code upload it will auto-calibrate. You will then have to select it as MIDI input and route it along with your keyboard in order to merge the pedal input with it. If done succesfully, you will be able to find the Arduino Micro as a MIDI device in your DAW and music applications. This will compile and upload the code to your arduino. File->Save to save with your desired name. Within Tools menu select Board: Arduino Micro and Port: the port that will have auto detected your arduino.Ĭreate a new sketch (File->New) copy the code from this instructable and paste it to your new sketch (overwriting the existing text). There is a hole in the glue pad to allow magnet - pedal direct contact. Magnet with glue pad for additional safety. Each pin should be inserted, press firmly so as to go as far in as possible. Insert the Arduino to the breadboard accross the middle gap so as to leave 4 free holes on one side and 1 on the other. I have tested and it works perfectly along with my VPC1 using Addictive Keys, Ravenscroft VI, Pianoteq, Garritan CFX, Kontakt (Noire) and Reaper and should work everywhere provided multiple input MIDI devices are allowed.
Since the pedal becomes an independent MIDI device you need to know how to route it in our apps and DAW. But this is a breeze with Arduino IDE and the changes are just changes in textģ. Configuration changes need modification and reupload of code - no controller application available.
You need to install Arduino IDE (just a small application really)Ģ. Relatively cheap solution: under 30 EUR with a genuine Arduino and if you go with clones you can go even lower.ġ.
Curves can be defined for each pedal independently and work on raw input values to avoid losing resolution (as with software curves)ħ. It is fully configurable, each of the 3 pedals can send any controller/mono aftertouch/pitch bend up/downĥ.
It is plug and play - the pedal is recognised as a regular MIDI device just as your keyboardĤ. It is also seamless/invisible with the exception of the extra USB cable that comes out of the pedal.ģ. Does not interfere with the pedal's original operation and is completely reversible. No soldering needed - no electronics experience neededĢ. I am using an Arduino Micro and 3 Linear (analog) Hall effect sensors to get analog signals from all pedals with strategically placed magnets.ġ.
The mod is based on an old idea by John O'Flaherty that I have built upon.
Since this mod actually enhances the pedal's operation it is not only for faulty ones and can even be used by non Kawai owners that just want a USB triple pedal. Here is a way to convert a (faulty or not) Kawai F-30 pedal (or identical Stugiologic/Fatar unit) into a standalone USB triple continuous pedal (i.e. Optional to prevent sensors from touching the base. I would suggest to use a cable with a very slim profile angled Micro USB connector as this will make fitting inside the pedal easier. Mini Solderless Prototype Breadboard 170 PointsĪny regular Cable tie will do - everyone has many of them lying around. You can experiment with different magnets but 20mm is the maximum length to fit beneath the pedals. 1 sensor per pedal.Īny M/F Jumper wire around 20cm would do, multi color packages are best as you can color code the connections. Do not confuse with KY-003 (not analog) and KY-024 (bulky, does not fit inside). Keyes KY-035 Analog Hall Magnetic Sensor Module Other similar form factor devices like Nano do not work as native USB support is needed. A clone based on ATmega32U4 could possibly be used but I suggest the original.